Introduction
On the north bank of the Sarawak River, across from the bustling Kuching Waterfront, stands an elegant white structure crowned with turrets—Fort Margherita. Built during the era of the White Rajahs, this fort has watched over Sarawak’s capital for nearly a century and a half. Today, it is more than a relic of colonial defense; it is a portal into Sarawak’s storied past, preserved beautifully through the Brooke Gallery housed within.
Whether you’re a local Sarawakian rediscovering your heritage or an overseas Sarawakian longing to reconnect with your roots, Fort Margherita offers an emotional, educational, and almost cinematic experience. And what better way to arrive than by tambang—the charming wooden river taxi still used by locals today?
Let us take you on a journey through time and tide, from the founding of the fort to the romantic reign of the Brooke dynasty, and why Fort Margherita remains a must-visit in Sarawak today.
View from Fort Margherrita
A Majestic Fort with a Heartfelt Name
Fort Margherita was built in 1879 by Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak. He named it after his beloved wife, Ranee Margaret, whom he deeply adored. The choice of name was not merely sentimental—it was a declaration of love immortalized in limestone and brick.
Constructed in the style of an English castle, the fort features crenellated parapets, towers, and narrow slit windows once used for gunfire. Strategically perched on a hilltop, it commanded a sweeping view of the Sarawak River and Kuching town—a prime vantage point for spotting pirate ships or any threat approaching via the waterway.
Though built for defense, Fort Margherita’s architecture and story reflect not only strength but also a gentler story of devotion and elegance that still moves visitors today.
The Brooke Dynasty: The White Rajahs of Sarawak
James Brooke: The First Rajah (1841–1868)
The dynasty began with James Brooke, a former British soldier who arrived in Borneo in 1839. After helping the Sultan of Brunei suppress a rebellion in Sarawak, he was appointed as governor and later gained autonomous rule in 1841.
James governed with fairness, abolished headhunting and slavery, and set up a basic administrative framework. His vision was to guide, not conquer. His style of leadership earned him the loyalty of Sarawak’s various ethnic groups.
Charles Brooke: The Builder (1868–1917)
Charles, James’s nephew, succeeded him and strengthened the government. He expanded Sarawak’s borders, built roads, introduced modern policing, and constructed Fort Margherita. Charles was an effective ruler who professionalized Sarawak’s administration.
His marriage to Ranee Margaret brought a softer cultural touch to the Brooke rule, bridging British values with local traditions.
Charles Vyner Brooke: The Last Rajah (1917–1946)
Charles Vyner was the final White Rajah. He introduced a constitution and was preparing Sarawak for self-rule when World War II disrupted everything. Japanese forces occupied Sarawak in 1941, and in 1946, Vyner ceded Sarawak to the British Crown.
While their reign ended, the Brookes left behind a legacy of governance, cultural preservation, and Sarawakian pride.
The Brooke Gallery: A Museum Inside a Castle
The Brooke Gallery was established in 2016 within Fort Margherita to honor this unique dynasty. It is curated by the Brooke Trust and the Sarawak Museum Department.
Visitors can explore:
Historic documents and treaties
Royal insignia and personal artifacts
Military relics and uniforms
Multimedia displays on Sarawak’s transformation
The gallery provides insights into colonial life, governance, diplomacy, and Sarawak’s place in the world during the Brooke era.
The Romance of the River: Arrive by Tambang
Tambang boats are small, wooden ferries that cross the Sarawak River. For locals, they’re part of daily life. For visitors, they offer a scenic, nostalgic, and affordable ride.
Hop onto a tambang from the Kuching Waterfront and enjoy:
A gentle breeze and river views
Photo ops of both old and modern Kuching
A slow, romantic approach to Fort Margherita
This timeless transport turns the journey into an experience. It’s ideal for couples, heritage seekers, or anyone looking to savor Kuching’s rhythm.
Surroundings and Nearby Attractions
Make your visit to Fort Margherita part of a wider Kuching heritage trail:
The Astana: Former residence of the White Rajahs
Sarawak Legislative Assembly Building: Iconic golden dome visible from the fort
Darul Hana Bridge: A pedestrian bridge offering panoramic views
Kampung Boyan: A riverside Malay village known for traditional kek lapis
Kuching Waterfront: A lively boulevard of culture, food, and history
Planning Your Visit
Getting There: Take a tambang from the waterfront, or drive and park nearby.
Opening Hours: Typically 9 AM – 4 PM daily.
Entry Fees: Affordable for locals, with discounts for students and seniors.
Recommended Time: 1.5 to 2 hours.
Best Season: Dry months (April to September) for pleasant walks and river rides.
Final Thoughts: Let the Fort Welcome You Home
Fort Margherita is more than a place; it’s a storybook in stone. With its romantic name, defensive heritage, and connection to the Brookes, it embodies the layered identity of Sarawak.
For overseas Sarawakians, it’s a beautiful way to reconnect with your homeland. For locals, it’s a treasure worth revisiting.
Arrive by tambang. Wander through the Brooke Gallery. Feel the past come alive.
Because Fort Margherita isn’t just a fort. It’s Sarawak’s soul, standing strong by the river.
